set-ups requiring chainline adjustment at the hub instead of cranks might have issues lining things up. like if you're running standard mtb cranks..

(dabomb) obviously some people do want freewheels and nobody mentioned throwing out their expensive cassettes. if you read the article, the rear hubs are for ss/dj and fixed gear. the main idea is stronger, lighter wheels.

fw's are inexpensive and they're self-contained so they're also much easier to replace than most rear hubs are to service. and also availability, freewheels are standardized and most shops stock them, but finding random rear hub drive parts can be a pain. A $20 freewheel can last several seasons, and you can flush them with degreaser and relube when they feel draggy without taking anything apart. freewheels are also much narrower than a standard hub's freehub body, so the chub's spoke flanges are way more centered which evens-out the spoke angles/torque and allows the larger flange/shorter spoke concept to work better than it would with standard offset flanges.